Setting foot aboard Sea Chant later we were gratified to find everything in apple pie order, just as we had left it 26 days earlier: no damp bedding or clothes. We unloaded the car and quickly nestled in to our bunk.
On the morning of Sat.10/1 I installed the new 5hp Tohatsu outboard on the stern bracket and we set out to fuel up. The little motor pushed us at about 2 kts and added a lot of maneuverability at the stern, like a stern thruster. It would be interesting to try backing into a slip using the outboard. The $2.35/ gallon was a pleasant surprise after $5/gal in Canada. Back in the slip, I returned the rental car, stopping at a Home Depot for a piece of pvc tubing, which the marina service shop cut into four 18" pieces. These pieces became stilts under the legs of Joyce's chair, boosting the height by 7". Wow, Joyce could really see out over the bow from a comfortable seating position, and thoroughly enjoyed the improvement.
Saying our goodbyes and thank you's we headed back out on to the Erie Canal and Lake Oneida for a picture perfect crossing in mild fall weather. The hoped for Fall Color had yet to reach its peak, but here and there we were greeted by bursts of yellow, orange and red. We carried on, back in the canal again, through Sylvan Beach, where we had twice before launched our Macgregor 26 for previous canal adventures both east and west. Despite some misgivings about "advice" in the guidebooks to avoid Rome, the newly landscaped canal park looked inviting so we tied up, with the "help" of a friendly but obviously intoxicated local. He directed us to "CoalYard Charlie's", which was packed with what looked to be retired blue collar workers from the many long closed industrial sites. They knew a good deal, fast service and plenty of good food at low prices. Back aboard, we prepared to defend ourselves against the onslaught of local rowdies, only to spend a perfectly peaceful night.
The town of Rome grew up around the 6-mile wide "Oneida carrying place." There is continuous water access beginning at Woods Creek, through Lake Oneida, to the Oswego River, and thence to Lake Ontario. Six miles west of Woods Creek the Mohawk River led to the Hudson, and the Atlantic Ocean at New York City. This "carrying place" was the pivotal portaging link in east-west commerce, the only navigable passage through the Appalachian Mountains. The Erie Canal was inaugurated with locks built through Rome incrementally thus eliminating the need for "carrying." Each segment as it opened generated an immediate commercial windfall that buoyed enthusiasm for Governor Clinton's Canal ambitions
On 10/2 the bikes were launched in the morning for the 1-mile or so ride to the restored (rebuilt actually) Fort Stanwyx National Monument which protected the strategic "Oneida carrying place." There was an excellent museum and exhibit area as well as the fort itself. The fort was built about 1758 by the British, one of 4 such forts. Initially it protected citizens and commerce from the incursions of the French and their Indian allies.
At the outset of the American Revolution the six local Indian Nations were forced to choose sides in the conflict between the British and the Yanks, so as not to be left out of the land splits by the victor, as well as avenging previous injustices from various parties. In 1777 the scene was set for James Fennimore Cooper's novel "Drums along the Mohawk", when the British, with a force of two thousand men, attempted to take the fort back from the Americans. They had to settle for a siege, and tried to starve the Fort's occupants out. Hearing of the attack, local militia led by American General Herkimer numbering about 800 set out for the fort, but were ambushed by the British and their Indian allies, and about 200 "patriots" were killed. Everyone was a patriot in that war. The loyalists were aiding good King George in putting down a rebellion by British subjects. The newly formed Americans were fighting to create their own country, and the mostly peaceful Indians, who had been pushed around by everyone, were trying to keep their cultures viable. Soon a larger force of Americans was assembled and the British, hearing of this, were forced to abandon the siege and return to Canada. This force of British soldiers was prevented from joining up with General Braddock and that helped set the stage for his defeat at Saratoga.
Well fortified with a dose of local lore, we continued blissfully along the canal in more perfect weather, stopping briefly to visit the colonial home of General Herkimer. He was wounded during the battle but gamely directed the battle seated under a tree, and died at his home about 12 days later. We stopped for the night at lock 16.
10/3 The morning fog was thick, and we stayed put until another vessel passed, and quickly joined it in the lock. While they continued bravely on, we bailed out at the canalside town of St. Johnsville, enjoying breakfast in an interesting little restaurant with the lowest counter I have ever seen, really made for midgets. After the fog lifted we continued on, sharing the next lock with a sailboat manned by a young couple relocating to Boston. Since the next lock was just 4 miles ahead, we volunteered to proceed at their slower 5 kt pace. They repaid our considerate gesture with some fresh, homemade cookies baked aboard their boat that morning, and passed over with the aid of our crab net. We stopped briefly at Cannajoharie, an Indian word meaning "pot that washes itself", referring to a local phenomenon of a caldron-like rapid in a nearby river gorge, which was closed to visitors due to maintenance work on the park trails. The much-touted local art museum was also closed, due to construction of a new building. It was funny to see the landscaped sidewalk leading up the steps to a giant hole, with earthmoving equipment working furiously.
Back on the canal we decided we would try to make it to Scotia, home of the famous Glen-Sanders Mansion Restaurant. It was a race against time, as the canal locks close at 5pm. At lock 10 we asked the locktender to call ahead to lock 9 to see if he would mind waiting for us a bit. He agreed so we pushed the throttle up and old "Sea Chant" trembled at the thrill of planing speed, about 11 kts, and we reached the lock just 5 minutes after 5pm. We had to content ourselves with that small victory as we tied up about 6pm on the wrong side of lock 8, still 4 miles from out destination. A call to the restaurant produced a local cab, and the evening was saved.
Glen-Sanders was built as a trading post in 1658 by a Scotsman, and moved a hundred yards to its present location in 1685 due to river flooding. The Mansion came into its own when the newly married Glen - Sanders couple built the large addition in 1713, which became the main dining room of the restaurant. Legend has it that local townsfolk fought off marauding Indians from the upper rooms, and tomahawk marks on the banisters attest to the Indians' frustration. The elegant dinner was one of the highlights of the trip, and also served to celebrate Joyce's birthday. Of course, George Washington ate and slept there. He wasn't even born until almost 20 years after the addition was built. The original 1658 structure serves as the kitchen, and has been in continuous use almost 350 years, making it one of the oldest commercial structures in America.
10/4 Socked in again by morning fog, I attended to "Sea Chant's" needs with an oil and fuel filter change before again setting forth. The river widens considerably for the ten miles to lock 7, and another 10 miles to lock 6, where we were treated to the view of a large passenger vessel carefully exiting the lock. The last 5 locks are built as a continuous "flight", and drop you 169' back to Waterford, where we stretched our legs before passing through the last lock of the hundred or so we have transited, back on to the Hudson river at Troy.
We tied up to the small floating dock at Albany, troubling the local fishermen a bit as they adjusted to the new visitor. They were busy catching catfish and throwing them back, and drinking a few beers. We biked around Albany, which had many scenic buildings and parks but was on a bit too much of a slope. Joyce's bike brakes were nearly worn out by the steep descents. Back aboard after dinner, we settled down for the night. At one am Joyce awakened me to say there was someone on the boat. This is only the 2nd time we have had that happen in 35 years of cruising. The opportunist was quickly routed, and probably either curious, or looking for a trysting place: he was accompanied by two females. We settled back with no further disturbances.
10/5 The next day we caught the tide and made good progress until entering a fogbank and having to trust our radar, navigating from buoy to buoy. "It looks like something big coming," I said to Joyce. It was exciting to see an ocean going freighter emerge from the fog ahead of us, right where the radar said it was. It seemed lake a good time to exit the river for scenic Catskill Creek, which meanders about 4 miles and afforded us the best fall color of the trip. The nearby hills were ablaze with beautiful hues. Back on the river the tide had turned agin'us, but we pushed on passing historic West Point in the haze, and periodically reverting to radar in the foggier areas. Picking up a vacant mooring at Chelsea, just above the Newburg Bridge, we were only two miles from where Joyce had originally joined me on the trip. The river currents and tides turned us first one way then another for a complete view of all the lights of the surrounding towns. Listening to the NOAA weather broadcast of the fronts and high winds due Friday evening and Saturday we decided the cruise was over and it was time to revert to "Delivery Mode".
Thursday 10/6 - We had an early 0545 departure. It was dark but clear, under the Newburg Bridge and down the Hudson with the tide, past the Pallisades and into NYC, about 60 miles, to refuel at Liberty Landing Marina, then past the Statue of Liberty (always a thrill) under the Veranzanno Narrows Bridge, and out to sea. Atlantic City is about 75 miles from the NYC harbor, and we tied up at midnight for a well-deserved nightcap after eighteen hours and 140 miles of continuous running.
Up and back on the ocean at 0700 10/7 Friday with the small craft warnings for Friday PM. Wind picked up a bit halfway to Cape May (32 miles) and it got a little rolly. We were glad to pull into the harbor at 11:30am, and it was tempting to stop but straight through the canal we went and onto Delaware Bay. Not bad for a bit but further out the waves picked up and soon we were barreling along at 9 - 12 kts, top speed was 14.3 surfing down a large wave, barely in control. This continued for several hours but got a little better as we got closer to the C & D canal. We caught the current and did 10.3 kts down the canal, arriving at Chesapeake City at 6pm, just in time for a delicious meal at the Harborside Restaurant, with Joe at the piano playing for us (and everybody else). Being too cheap to pay for dockage in the secure little harbor, we set out in the dark and drizzle 4 miles down to the end of the canal, pulled over a bit out of the channel and dropped the hook. There was a nice chop as the fetch was about a half mile, but we were too tired to care after our 11 hour 92 mile slog today.
Saturday 10/8 - Left the safety of the Elk River at 0800, noted port fuel tank low so pulled into the Bohemia River Yacht Club Marina in the rain to add fuel. With the rain and fog we picked up a mooring to catch our breath, then dropped it and headed back down the Chesapeake. It was fine for a while but got very gusty and soon whitecaps and big waves started bouncing us around. We bailed out at Fairlee Creek and anchored for 2 hours, along with several other cruisers. We watched the wind blow the trees around and whistle through the boat, but during a lull we hoisted the anchor and headed back out for another go, hugging the shore for the scant protection it offered. Near rock Hall the full force of the wind and waves hit us and we again headed for shelter, this time in Rock Hall harbor, where the friendly Mariner's Restaurant awaited. Thus fortified, I first thought of nearby Swan Creek for an overnight anchorage, but it was just 5pm and I could see the Bay Bridge beckoning just 11 miles away.
It was a painful 11 miles, as the wind switched to the north at 25kts and huge waves quickly built, rolling the boat severely at times and tossing cabin furniture and sundry other items about. Joyce found a place on the floor and hung on as I grimly steered through the seas, again surfing over 13kts. Finally the bridge was behind us and in somewhat calmer waters we steered straight across the Severn River and into Lake Ogleton, where we anchored for the night, anxiously awaiting the cold front. Front arrived, milder than expected, dropped the temperature and fogged up all the windows with condensation. It rained inside the boat.
Sunday 10/09 - A little chilly, 62degres. Underway at 0800 in relatively calm seas to Mayo, Casa Rio Marina arriving 0930 to unload the luggage, bikes, dinghy, extra fenders, and excess groceries before heading over to Pirate's Cove Marina in Galesville to tie up in Maggie's Farm's slip. Maggie's Farm (from the Bob Dylan Song of that name) is our J-30 racing sailboat which has been pulled out for the season. I got there just in time to volunteer as crew aboard one of the other boats in the Sunday Frostbite series and next week it's back to work as another load of new boats is due to arrive. It was a great trip, over 1000 miles and 100 locks with, except for Saturday, exceptionally nice weather, and I heartily recommend it to anyone. We are already making plans to return next Summer with a MacGregor powersailer. There are rental agencies for those who are boatless.
Cheers! - Capt Jim and First Mate Joyce, a.k.a Stilts